Designer of the deepest dye

IT’S very likely that our minds would conjure up kaleidoscopes of flora and foliage at the mention of batik. Alternatively, the sarong wraps and kaftans our elders (used to) wear as pyjamas.
Which is why Fern Chua is on a quest to set things straight. Since 2013, the founder of design house FERN (www.fern.gallery) has been injecting a breath of fresh air into what we conventionally recognise as batik while preserving the traditional wax-resistant dyeing technique.
Armed with the tagline “The New Batik”, Chua swaps heavy hues and busy motifs for sophisticated swatches and a more abstract approach to creating patterns, batik-style. Think brush strokes and splatters, as well as polka dots and marble effects. Out of these hand-designed fabrics, she’d then construct chic and contemporary wear ranging from shift and wrap dresses, jumpsuits and jackets, to blazers and blouses.
“A lot of people are very surprised that FERN’s clothings are actually batik. Everyone has the perception that the kebaya and nyonya print, the traditional floral motif, and the repetition of patterns, define batik.
“Batik is actually a technique which involves the application of wax on the fabric to create resistance for the dye in order to make patterns,” explained the Johor Bahru native.
The inception of FERN was largely driven by Finnish furnishings and fashion company Marimekko, as Chua wanted to create a home-grown brand that would become a household name in Malaysia.
“Finnish people are so proud of wearing Marimekko. I remember when I was in Finland, I asked myself, ‘Why can’t Malaysian batik be as popular?’
“Batik is a heritage of ours but it doesn’t have to be old and traditional. You have to evolve with trends and what the consumer wants these days. With FERN, I’m aiming to encourage the younger generation to appreciate batik, like how a Caucasian would value it as exotic and artisanal,” Chua divulged, adding that her clientele is a blend of locals and expatriates, aged between late 20s and 60.
Not to mention, FERN’s exclusive use of natural fabrics – silk, linen and cotton – guarantees not only an ethereal impression and feminine allure, but a feathery and fluid comfort, ideal for our tropical climate.
April marks a lively month for FERN, as Chua is releasing the Waves series which comprises 10 to 12 looks. Like her first collection, which encapsulates her experience of the Japanese alps in winter, Waves will pay tribute to nature and her travels.
“I visit beaches a lot, and one of it that really caught my eye is in Brazil. Rio de Janeiro is known for this print which they call the wave. It was all over in Brazil, which inspired me to take it as an approach for this collection.
“The collection captures all the shades of the sea – not just blue and white – but emerald, turquoise, grey, midnight blue, and black, as well as the shimmering reflection of the moonlight on the waters,” revealed the 30-year-old.
Chua also recently showcased batik pieces which she designed for the first time using natural dyes, as commissioned by researcher Erna Dyanty in a collaborative exhibition with the Japan Foundation.
“What’s interesting now is that we are actually thinking of ways to use natural dyes – from mango and nangka leaves, and any parts of plants. I’m looking to be able to eventually have my own range of natural dye,” Chua expressed.