Step into Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur city centre and you will come face-to-face with the misty allure of old-world Chinatown of the 1960s

RECENTLY restored to reflect the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk.

Comprising 10 shophouses and a hidden laneway that features six interactive murals tucked between Lorong Panggung and Petaling Street, the project was undertaken by Bai Chuan Management with the support of social purpose organisation Think City.

Aside from taking the senses for an experiential stroll through the romanticised back alley of early Chinese settlers in the area, the project also utilises modern technology to give voice to the story.

The entrance to Kwai Chai Hong is parallel to Petaling Street, where a bridge with a pair of lovers painted perched on the railings welcomes visitors.

You can also walk out through the back doors of Bubble Bee Café, where you will find a charming back lane with multiple spots for photo ops. More access points may open once tenants take up the available space.

The murals, painted by five local artists in the late nights and early mornings prior to the recent unveiling of Kwai Chai Hong, depict the everyday life of residents in the area back in the era.

They show children entertaining themselves with just marbles and rubber bands, as well as an old erhu-playing uncle.

And don’t be surprised if you see a feisty landlady with rollers still in her hair looking out a window. But don’t look for her real-life ‘twin’, as she was there only for the launch!

According to Bai Chuan Management managing director Zeen Chang, who took guests on a tour of Kwai Chai Hong, the murals are coupled with QR codes that offer an immersive experience of life back in the 1960s.

Visitors just have to scan the barcode on each mural, and they can hear the characters recite their tale in Cantonese.

“By giving you a multiple [sensory experience], you see it with your eyes [as] you walk through the back lane; you see the whole environment,” said Chang.

“It’s like you’re going into a different era [altogether].”

Even the mixed smells of concrete plaster and cooking from the kitchens in the back lane add to the senses, Chang said.

Then there is the significant element of sound, “the sound of the people that used to meet there”, when you scan the QR codes which provide more background information on the early Chinese settlers who lived in this area of the city.

Chang added that listening to the characters in the murals talk “really [sends] shivers down your spine, because it’s like [they] are talking to you”.

She said the decision to add sound was made “because we felt that is really immersive to someone’s soul. If I want to bring you back in time, that final layer of sound does it”.

Kwai Chai Hong is Cantonese for ‘Ghost Lane’, and while the origin of its unearthly name is unclear, three guesses often surface.

It could be a reference to early migrants yelling out ‘little demons’ when calling for their children, or vice activities like gambling and opium smoking which earned those who indulged in them monikers like ‘gambling ghosts’ and ‘smoking ghosts’, or even gang bosses calling their young pledges ‘little ghosts’.

Regardless of how Kwai Chai Hong got its name, the many theories certainly help add colour to the stories about the area.

As Chang puts it: “I want people to enjoy not just that moment, but to have a story to tell even after”.

At the end of the day, the project aims to celebrate the heritage of the Chinese community and its impact on Kuala Lumpur’s golden era.

Currently, Kwai Chai Hong is open only from 9am to 6pm daily. The time will be extended once more tenants take up the available spaces.

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

Showcasing the vibrant history and heritage of the Chinese community in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong is the city’s latest arts and cultural hotspot where the walls really do talk. – ADIB RAWI YAHYA/ THESUN

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