WHAT is a distinguished national dish?
There may be a few that come to mind, but nothing specific truly represents Malaysia as a whole amongst the ethnically diverse and now, hybridised recipe attempts to perhaps disrupt the discourse of authentic Malaysian cuisine.
At ATAS Modern Malaysian Eatery, the shift to modern Malaysian cuisine suggests new interpretations of the familiar and distinctive flavours presented alongside with contemporary panache, where guests will discover a newfound appreciation for the ubiquitous and indigenous produce found throughout the Malay Peninsula.
The restaurant at the newly opened The RuMa Hotel and Residences, ATAS showcases its novel approach towards redefining Malaysian cuisine without losing its integrity through the eyes of one man.
Helmed by molecular gastronomy executive chef Tyson Gee, he borrows the loved or lost culinary cultures of Malaysia to inspire a cuisine unlike any other in unusual and creative ways.
Originally from Vancouver, Canada, Chef Gee’s life-long passion for exploring new cuisines and his culinary adventures across Southeast Asia has taught him to value fresh produce and local flavours, as a result, ATAS’ menu is ever evolving through the year.
Being in the industry for over 14 years, he shares: “It’s hard to frame the definition of modern Malaysian cuisine because I don’t think there’s any specifically.
“However, my goal isn’t to deconstruct classical or traditional Malaysian dishes but to reinterpret local ingredients and flavour profiles into something uniquely Malaysian.
“It focuses on the taste composition in a way that complements each other while incorporating contemporary cooking techniques.”
Driven by curiosity and admiration for fresh produce, Chef Gee focuses on what’s best available each season to cleverly develop a menu that unearths the bold flavours of locally grown produce and heirloom ingredients; a menu that is filled with robust aromas, original pairings and innovative methods.
“I don’t overly trick up my food, in fact, they are rather simple but with big and bold flavours using robust ingredients to have the food speaks for itself.”
It might be dubious to have a Canadian chef present us Malaysian cuisine we know so well of.
He says: “I guess we can all agree that Malaysians are very welcoming and educated in the sense of food.
“As we push the boundaries of the possibilities of Malaysian cuisine, it’s encouraging to see the comments we’ve been receiving to see it being done in a different manner.”
So how should one enjoy the dining experience at ATAS?
“The idea is for people to come in and order something from every section of the menu.
“Starting off from the snacks for small curated bites, followed by the entrée and a main course, or several to share among individuals,” shares the chef.
Right off the bat, this festive season Chef Gee’s fresh approach to the quintessential Lunar New Year tradition and food - yee sang celebrates the same cultural revival of ATAS with unexpected surprises and a refreshing local twist using pucuk paku, betel leaf, fried chicken skin and sweet tamarind plum as dressing is refreshing to witness and hands down the best yee sang I ever tasted.
After an enthusiastic toss to good fortune, while saying auspicious wishes, the culinary journey at ATAS continues with servings of tantalising appetizers to set the mood for the anticipated culinary offerings.
Smoked eel panisse piped with calamansi aioli and bits of salmon roe on top burst upon first bite adding savoury surprises; blue tiger prawn served on a herbaceous betel leaf with charred coconut as garnish perfectly balances the bitter and peppery taste.
Moving on to the starters, heirloom tomatoes are skinned, served with whipped tofu and basil while soaking in salted plum dressing to evoke unexpected taste combinations; cured ocean trout served with crispy puffed tapioca blends both of its contrasting textures in addition to the sambal dressing makes each bite even more memorable than before.
Then comes the prized main courses prepared using the restaurant’s charcoal oven to slowly grill its tender juicy meat to acquire a distinctive roast aroma and flavour.
The craft was seen evidently in Chef Gee’s succulent wagyu sirloin with an exceptional marble score of seven-plus giving it melt-in-your-mouth textures without being overly greasy.
The steak served alongside with sour leaves, Chinese kale (kai lan) and the tangy sauce of sambal assam blends with its understated spiciness.
Other mains include roast squid served with wing bean, belimbing and green sambal; and the dry-aged duck breast served with choy sum, ambarella (kedongdong) and the complex flavours of five spice.
Its side dishes are simplistic yet have proved themselves to be equally good, such as the jasmine rice salad made of fragrant jasmine rice, chicken skin, spring onions and sesame; and charred baby corn served with coconut cream and a generous amount of grated Pecorino cheese.
Modern Malaysian cuisine is what you make of it. Regardless, ATAS’ sensible interpretations elevated with farm-fresh ingredients of classic local produce are culinary revelations not just as a craft, but to the taste buds as well.
